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Hoisin Glazed Chicken Wings

  1 gallon water 1/3 cup soy sauce 1/3 cup sugar 2 Tbl kosher salt 1 1/2 Tbl crushed red pepper flakes 1/2 cup white vinegar 2 Tbl fresh ginger, minced 3# fresh chicken wings     2-7 0nce jars hoisin...

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Deja Vu

  “If I had ever been here before I would probably know just what to do. Don’t you? If I had ever been here before on another time around the wheel, I would probably know just how to deal… And I feel...

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Tornado: Week II

  Holidays have been challenging occasions lately, at least in this area. Hurricane Isaac hit the “land mass” known as the Mississippi Gulf Coast a few days before Labor Day. Halloween was the...

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Spring Break

  Spring break is here. In a brief, 21-day stretch thousands of high schools and universities across the South will release their students from the weighty chains of homework and term papers and set...

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The Table

  The breakfast room table is the center of my home. The table itself is large, round, and crafted from several sections of burled olive wood, which make it one of the most beautiful pieces of...

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Cooking Competitively

  Over the last decade, cooking has become very competitive. For years, the only cooking competitions that existed were low-key chef contests that no one had heard of— mostly events where chefs with...

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Spring Break 2013

  “The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.”— Robert Burns Two weeks ago, while looking for a non-traditional location for the St. John family Spring break of 2013, I came up with Austin, TX....

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The Moving Feast

  Spring is here. I know this, not because of the calendar but, because pine pollen is blowing across the roads in thick, billowing yellow clouds. It’s thick this year, and is possibly the most pollen...

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Chicken Pot Pie

    Chicken pot pie might be the quintessential family-supper comfort food. Some could make a valid case for pot roast or meatloaf. Others might cast their vote for beef stew. Healthier types would...

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Restaurant People

  I love restaurant people. They are my comrades, and I am proud to be considered among their ranks. I’ve been working with, and hanging around, restaurant people for 33 years. We are a different breed...

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What’s So Bad About Bones?

  I read a news article last week that described how the owners of Kentucky Fried Chicken were starting to serve boneless chicken. I am not a KFC customer, but it puzzled me for a moment because I...

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Friends

  I am a blessed man. I am blessed for many reasons: I have a beautiful, smart, loving wife who is an excellent mother. I have two wonderful children, a great extended family, and several businesses...

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Candia Love

    The restaurant business is full of characters. Restaurateur’s personality profiles run the gamut— buttoned-down straight-laced business types, off-the- wall bohemians, and everything in between....

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The Most Stressful Workday

  Do you remember the most stressful day of your life? I do, and I have a photograph to prove it. In 1991, I was opening my second restaurant, Crescent City Grill. Actually, I was reopening it under...

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The Book Monkey

  I am fascinated by the various burdens we carry without realizing that they are there. Last week I completed my ninth book, turned it in to the book producer, who will send it to the copy editor, who...

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Bun Tiffing

  “She ‘tifs’ the buns.” Those four words were one of the greatest culinary mysteries of my childhood. I’m not even sure of the actual spelling of the word “tif,” since it’s a word that I apparently...

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Whodunit: Bootlegger’s In the Bakery

There is a French bakery across the street from my office. Six mornings a week a Frenchman named Janusz bakes fresh croissants and pastries. He also makes a mean omelet (anytime you have the...

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Mississippi Darts

Two years ago my family and I were sitting next to two brothers in a small trattoria in Florence, Italy. One of the brothers owned a small clothing shop down the street and I struck up a conversation...

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Unforgettable Food

I have always had a hunch that food tastes better or worse depending on the vessel in which it is served. When I was a kid my grandmother hosted a grand lunch every Sunday. Her formal dining room was...

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Regrets? I Have A Few

I am currently finishing up a complete makeover of our 25-year old restaurants. For the past nine months I have had a large construction wall erected around our business as we remodeled the interiors,...

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